With air temperature and water temperature both around 72°F we splashed into the underwater cavern that is Devil’s Den (see image at right). Excellent visibility (50 feet), abundant fish life and interesting rock formations awaited us. The swim-throughs under and around the rocks around the edge of the cavern gave us a brief taste of what true cavern and cave exploration would be like - and we wanted more. However, the sign bearing the likeness of the Grim Reaper, warning us to go no farther, was all the motivation needed not to explore beyond the main cavern. The sun shining brightly from above our subterranean site cast an eerie yet beautiful glow on our activities. With a maximum depth of 45 feet, we had nearly 1 hour per dive to completely explore the cavern.

For the first portion of our trip we elected to stay at Devil’s Den, and drive to other dive sites. The cabins for rent are very affordable ($65 per night), clean, spacious (2 sleeping areas each with a double bed), and with all amenities (barbeque, full kitchen, TV). I would recommend to anyone wanting fresh water diving in North-Central Florida to consider staying at Devil’s Den.

The next day found us at Ginnie Spring’s, in High Springs. About a 30 minute drive north of Williston, Ginnie Spring’s is well known for its ‘gin - clear’ water. We were not disappointed. It was like liquid air, as we could see clear from one side of the spring to the other. After dropping down 15 feet from the main entrance, we entered the cavern. After approximately 30 to 40 feet of linear penetration with about a 5 or 6 foot vertical clearance, the cavern opened up considerably and dropped to a depth of 50 feet. Further exploration into the spring system was blocked by a steel grate with the now-familiar Grim Reaper (see image at left). By far, this was the most beautiful and effortless dive I have done.

After a brief lunch, we were ready to hit the water again. Our second dive of the day was at the Devil’s Spring System at Ginnie Spring’s (see image at right). Consisting of a series of 3 cave entrances within a 100 meter stretch of water off the Sante Fe River, we were able to explore them all easily on one tank. No lights are permitted here, as the temptation to go beyond ambient light may prove too great for those not properly trained in cave diving. Maximum depths of 45 feet, very clear water and warm temperatures (72°F) allowed us a glimpse into the fascinating world of cave exploration - and we will be back for proper training so I can see what lies on the other side of the Grim Reaper.

The facilities at Ginnie Spring’s were first class, with a well stocked dive shop, very helpful and friendly staff, snack bar and deli, reasonable air fills, large pavilions near each dive site for gearing up, and extremely well maintained washrooms and showers. Lots of hot water with great water pressure is the best way to rinse off after a day of diving. Hats off to a well run dive operation!

After a couple of days spent celebrating Christmas with Shelley’s grandfather in New Smyrna, we continued our journey to the Florida Keys. We stayed at Kelly’s on the Bay , which has a charter company, Aqua-Nuts, on premises. The convenience of diving and staying at the same place was very appealing. The only reservation I would have about diving with Aqua-Nuts again was their reluctance to disclose dive destinations for the upcoming days. I realize weather and site conditions will dictate to some degree, but if your intent is to dive shallow reefs, then the customer deserves to know.

Our first day of diving in the Keys was to explore the North North Rocks reef - about 30 feet in depth with an assortment of sea life (sponges, eels, and truly enormous jewfish). The second dive was to the ‘wreck’ of the City of Washington. To call this scattered debris a wreck was most generous, yet we enjoyed the abundance and variety of fish life. However, after two shallow and relatively easy dives, we were looking for more.

After finally determining that the next day’s diving with Aqua-Nuts would also be to shallow reefs, we went out in search of another dive charter. We found Sharky’s, and were most impressed. Their intent for the next day was to dive the Spiegel Grove and Molasses Reef. I found the boats and staff at Sharky’s to be top-notch - the boats are clean, friendly, and very spacious for gearing up comfortably, with an entire upper deck for relaxing in the sun while en route to and from dive sites, while the crew were friendly, laid-back, and very knowledgeable.

The Spiegel Grove (see image at left) was all that we expected. Visible immediately upon splashing in from the boat, we followed the mooring line down to this goliath of a wreck. Some 592 feet in length, even with 130 + visibility, we could only see a small portion of the vessel. With a maximum depth of 130 feet, it would take many dives to explore this massive wreck, which has only recently been sunk. No current and 74°F water allowed us to take our time and truly appreciate the size and beauty of such a site. Current can be a serious concern at this site, however, we were fortunate.

The two reefs we dove in the Keys, the Molasses and French reef , were full of interesting sea life. From reef and nurse sharks to puffer and jewfish, we enjoyed the variety that the Keys had to offer. I couldn’t help but notice that the reefs here had noticeably fewer fish than those I dove previously around West Palm Beach. Perhaps this is a result of much greater dive traffic in the Keys - each boat we were on had close to 20 divers. Despite this comparison, the dives were still tremendous experiences.

Our second day with Sharky’s found us on the Coast Guard cutter, the Bibb. An incredibly ripping current that you had to deal with going from the trailing line to the descent line caused 6 divers on the boat to turn back. Four divers never ventured off the boat, wisely acknowledging their limitations and comfort level. To the rest of us, the current trailed off beyond twenty feet, and we were treated to my favourite wreck (so far). 100 foot visibility, sea turtles, schools of barracuda, and an intact wreck were but a few highlights. With a maximum depth of 135 feet, it was time to end the dive far quicker than Shelley or I wanted. This is a dive we all thoroughly enjoyed, and would recommend heartily.

A few days off from diving seemed in order, so we decided to spend New Year’s in Clearwater Beach. After an exciting and eye-popping drive across ‘Alligator Alley’, we quickly made our way to the beaches of Clearwater for which they are famous. For our stay, we selected the ‘Albatross Motel’, which offered easy access to the beach and restaurants, low prices and very friendly operators. The highlight of our rest stop in Clearwater has to be the events of New Year’s eve. A severe storm lashed the town, with over 5 inches of rain falling in one hour. The streets quickly filled with water, as storm grates were blocked with debris. We found ourselves wading in thigh deep water (against the current no less) when Shelley stepped off a curb and DISAPPEARED. The hole she stepped into went undetected until she submerged. We all arrived at the restaurant looking like drowned rats. A few pints later, the merriment and good times continued.

Our last stop in Florida before returning home on January 2nd was at the Blue Grotto, in Williston. From it’s webpage we were expecting a much larger cavern to explore. We were disappointed with the size - only 20 minutes into our first dive and we had thoroughly explored the passages and main cavern. A few nice features of the dive included a rope that was strung through the passages (so cavern certification is not necessary), and the air bell at 20 feet. The air bell is a 6 foot around chamber into which fresh air from the surface is continually pumped. This allows you to complete a safety stop without using the air in your tank, or to have a conversation without the need to end your dive (making it more suitable for novice divers). However, at $27 (American), this was not a site to which we intend to return. For my 150^th dive, a more memorable site would have been preferred. However, I could think of no greater dive buddies with which I would wish to share this occasion. After attempting to shower (horribly filthy showers - never use these!), we settled in for the long drive back to the land of ice and snow. But we’ll definitely be back.